Les Amis de Saint Vincent

Transkript

1 Les Amis de Saint Vincent Bonussmaking hos Åge Sørsveen Bordeaux fra 1980-tallet F. Nansens vei 32, 13. feb Hovedtema: Bordeaux fra 1980 tallet 1. Château La Conseillante Château Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Château Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Château Langoa Barton Château Cheval Blanc Château Mouton Rothschild Château Margaux Château Margaux 1981 Chateau la Conseillante 1989 Wine 1 For meg (Are Åmot 2012/Red&White) vil alltid dette huset anno de, i området, edleste årgangene på 80-tallet (1982, 1985, 1989), representere noe av det fremste Bordeaux kan fremvise. Disse vinene står som påler og milestener for all fremtid! Årsakene er ulike. Et fenomenalt jordsmonn, og et i denne perioden fremragende regime på eiendommen, er de to viktigste. I tillegg kommer Moder Naturs meget generøse årgangs-bistand! I det hele tatt bød 80-tallet på en rekke årganger av en kvalitet og mengde vi ikke har sett siden. Blir klimaet mer og mer krevende for våre venner sydvest i Frankrike? Mange setter rød 1990 over 1989 i Bordeaux-inkludert Parker. Når det kommer til Pomerol, og ikke minst ovenstående eiendom, er forholdet motsatt; 89 er friskere, er fastere i fisken og har mer "grep" og flere og finere nyanser, dessuten vil 89 garantert lagre/utvikle bedre og lenger - i det hele tatt gi deg en enda større og finere opplevelse når flasken åpnes tenderer -som det meget tørre og varme året det var- til sur-maturité (overmodne, ubalanserte druer, bl.a. med for lav fruktsyre), og mindre elegante versjoner, sett i forhold til året før er gjerne hva man på fransk ville definere som un peu "confit". Som de sier i England: "jammy". Man kan finne flotte 90'ere også,men altså, rent generelt... Idet korken poppes merker man seg at den ser ut som den var satt i for 3-4, og ikke snart 21 år siden! Fenomenal kork, som vil holde tett svært lenge! Myk og elastisk, men ikke FOR! Lang og smidig, slik en elitespuns skal være. Idag koster slike korker godt over 10 kroner stykket... Man skulle kanskje ha dekantert vinen. Oppnår ikke fullt volum før etter minimum 2 timers lufttilgang i rød bordeaux Riedel sommelier. Men det er svært interessant å følge alle vinens stadier, slik den utvikler seg i glasset over tid.

2 Men, som alltid: Utseendet først! Dyprødt senter, nær sort midtpunkt, men med startende modningskant i glasset; det som alltid vil ende opp i "musteinsrød"/oransje kant, når vinen er blitt riktig gammel. Her vil dette ta noen år til, ja! Duften: Klar trøffelaroma under en ikke tykk, men definert og lekkert intens frukt, basert på kjøttmoreller og søte kirsebær, nyknuste blåbær, plommer og svakt svisker - og en skinnende karakter av ekte Pomerol; her sanser du at dette vil smake rundt og bløtt og fyldig - intenst fruktsmakende, med mineralt tilsnitt. Nyanserik og aldri trettende aroma av SÅ edelt merke! Mørk og noe lys sjokolade, litt lakris? Og så resten da-alt det udefinerbare: STOR, totalforførende POMEROL! Oohh yes!!!!! Smaken er egentlig smått paradoksal: Conseillante gir aldri -akkurat som sin nabo rett over i St Emilion; Ch Figeac- de fyldigste vinene: Disse er gjerne, selv i svære og rike år som 89, middels fyldige til middels fyldige/fyldige -aldri over i fyldige til fyldige/meget fyldige... (Og kan av denne grunn gjerne komme litt urettferdig svakt ut en primeur sammenlignet med sine "biggere" naboer). MEN: Når finish (ettersmaken) umiddelbart etter svelging melder seg, får du et volum og en impact som om den egentlig hadde rikdom og fylde som en edel vintage port...!! Et teppe av nyanserte, edle kryddere og jordaromaer legger seg overalt i ganen sammen med den vidunderlige, kremaktige, finesserike frukten, og lingrer der lenge, lenge. Historien denne beauty'en har å fortelle deg, vil du garantert aldri glemme!!! 80% merlot, 20% cabernet franc tilplantet. Små variasjoner vil forekomme, avhengig av karakteren på de ulike årganger. Varierende grad av ny eik: Fra 80% til 100%. Temmelig sikkert at 89 har fått 100%. Nå (Vanlig flaske) 97-98p. PS: De senere utgaver av Conseillante har tapt endel (mye)av sin sjel, og blitt "Parkeriserte"; abnormt svære, kompakte (endel av skjønnheten i 80-talls Conseillante er en viss "luftighet", en viss klarhet og gjennomskinnelighet)og overekstraherte, med massiv kropp og fylde og markert eikepreg med for høy toast på fatene, og en too-much-of-a-good-thing-karakter. For j..., når man tenker på hva et av Bordeaux' edleste jordstykker kan prestere...får håpe pendelen etterhvert slår tilbake, mot det som er det naturlige for vinen! Tasting note: Full bodied, still youthful La Conseillante that is just opening up offering layers of cedar, cassis and blackberry flavours. The tannins are well integrated and handled, providing a firm backbone to a wine that has another decade or two of life. Not as generous as the 1990; the 1989 is more savoury with a roasted herb finish. Enjoy now. Tasted in: Hong Kong, China. Maturity: Drink. (15-Dec-2000)[Asian Palate Jeannie Cho Lee] Price Range of 750ml bottle, ex-tax in NOK Average: 2,520kr From: 1,859kr To 3,261kr Search Rank 89 Over all vintages, this was the 89th most popular wine on Wine-Searcher last year. Search rank last month: 112th Score: 91.When to drink: 1996 to 2016 The Wine-Searcher score of 91/100 is calculated from the following wine critic scores: CellarTracker 94/100(132 notes from 80 users )

3 Jean-Marc Quarin 94/100 Asian Palate Jeannie Cho Lee 92/100 Jancis Robinson 17.5/ to 2014 La Revue du Vin de France 16/ Chateau Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Grand Cru Classe Pauillac Wine 2 One of the 15 original estates to be bestowed 2nd Growth status in the 1855 Bordeaux Classification, "Pichon Lalande" is a wine with a higher than normal Merlot content and as such shows a lovely 'feminine style' of soft, plush fruits in Pauillac has been rated as high as 98/100 on many scales and is a true delight to the palate, and will continue to be for some time. Producer: Chateau Pichon-Longueville-Comtesse de Lalande Vintage: 1982 Style: red wine, full-bodied, rich and spicy Grape variety: Cabernet Sauvignon Origin: France, Bordeaux, Médoc Appellation: Pauillac Average price per bottle: View vintage guides» Tasting notes 06/10/ Pichon Lalande is an unusual style, with an over-ripe, exotic quality which David Peppercorn finds 'irresistable'. It was the first case of 'serious' wine Andrew Jefford ever bought, using 250 which his great-aunt left him. 'It cost about 90 in 1984,' he says. 'Needless to say, it was an extremely lucky hit.' Although calssified as a Pauillac, one third of the Pichon vineyard is actually in Saint-Julien. Ownership of the estate was decided in 1978 by family members drawing lots after a bitter feud. Read more at The Wine-Searcher score of 94/100 is calculated from the following wine critic scores:

4 Robert Parker The Wine Advocate 100/100 Falstaff Magazin 99/100 CellarTracker 97/100(294 notes from 183 users ) Stephen Tanzer 95/100 Wine Spectator 95/100 Jean-Marc Quarin 93/ to 2015 Jancis Robinson 17.5/20 La Revue du Vin de France 17/20 Wine Chateau Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Grand Cru Classe Pauillac Producer: Chateau Pichon-Longueville-Comtesse de Lalande Vintage: 1989 Style: red wine, full-bodied, rich and spicy Grape variety: Cabernet Sauvignon Origin: France, Bordeaux, Médoc Appellation: Pauillac Read more at Second Growth. Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe in Price Range of 750ml bottle, ex-tax in NOK Average: 1,473kr From: 1,077kr To 2,032kr Search Rank 21What is search rank? Over all vintages, this was the 21st most popular wine on Wine-Searcher last year. Search rank last month: 18th Score: 91.When to drink: 1997 to 2015 The Wine-Searcher score of 91/100 is calculated from the following wine critic scores: Huon Hooke 94/100 CellarTracker 93/100(295 notes from 194 users ) Stephen Tanzer 93/100 Jean-Marc Quarin 90/ to 2015 Decanter 18/20 La Revue du Vin de France 18/20 Jancis Robinson 17/20 Vinum Wine Magazine 16.5/ to 2006

5 Critical Acclaim "Approaching full maturity, Pichon-Lalande s1989 has a deep ruby/plum color with some lightening at the edge. The nose offers sweet plums and creme de cassis intermixed with vanilla and graphite. The wine is lush, medium to full-bodied, and layered with texture, low acidity, sweet tannin, and the hallmark purity and elegance this estate routinely produces. Some tannins remain, but this wine has reached its plateau of maturity, where it should remain for another years. Anticipated maturity: Now Last tasted, 5/02." 93 PointsThe Wine Advocate "Full, deep red. Flamboyant aromas of cassis, currant leaf, tobacco, herbs and animal fur. Sweet, lush and lively; already showing lovely inner-mouth aromatic character. Finishes long, strong and lively, with firm tannins and slow-mounting persistence. Earlier bottles of this wine appeared to be a bit more exotic, even slightly animal, but this offers a lovely combination of purity and sheer ripeness. Drink over the next 15 years." 93 PointsInternational Wine Cellar Château Langoa Barton 1985 Fact Sheet Winery: Château Langoa Barton Appellation: St. Julien Country: France Vintage: 1985 Wine type: Red Grapes: Red Bordeaux Blend Wine 4 Château Langoa Barton 1985 is a red wine, made by Château Langoa Barton. Its origin is St. Julien in Médoc, Bordeaux, France. It is made from a Red Bordeaux blend. It is produced from the 1985 harvest. Wine Spectator gave a rating of 91 out of 100 to the 1985 Langoa Barton (Chateau) Saint Julien For all vintages of Château Langoa Barton we have 59 ratings on record with an average of 87/100 points. See all vintages and ratings of Château Langoa Barton. Wine 5 Chateau Cheval Blanc, which is translated into white horse, has a long, colorful history in St. Emilion that is traced all the wine back to That was the year the Ducasse family purchased land from the much larger estate of Chateau Figeac. Prior to its rebirth as Cheval Blanc, the vineyard was better known as Le Barrail de Cailloux, which is loosely translated into the barrel of tiny stones. The original vines purchased from Figeac became the genesis of what many people think is the best wine of St. Emilion, Chateau Cheval Blanc. At that time, back in 1832, Figeac was owned by Countess Félicité de Carle-Trajet. In those days, Figeac had grown to a massive 200 hectare estate. It was The Countess who decided to sell portions of their holdings to interested buyers. The breakup of Figeac helped create a myriad of new St Emilion

6 wine making estate for numerous interested buyers. That explains why so many chateaux include the word Figeac as part of their name. However, the owners of what was to become Cheval Blanc wanted to eventually establish their own identity that was seperate from Figeac. In 1838, the Ducasse family began buying more St. Emilion vineyard land to create Chateau Cheval Blanc. In 1852, when Mille Ducasse married Jean Laussac-Fourcaud, she came with a dowry that included their recently acquired Bordeaux vineyards that included 2 of the 5 gravel mounds running through Chateau Cheval Blanc and Figeac. This was an amazing dowry! The family Laussac-Fourcaud continued adding to their holdings and by 1871, they accumulated a total of 41 hectares in St. Emilion. Chateau Cheval Blanc remains that size to this day. Premier Grand Cru Classe A in Price Range of 750ml bottle, ex-tax in NOK Average: 3,719kr From: 2,764kr To 5,974kr Search Rank 15 Over all vintages, this was the 15th most popular wine on Wine-Searcher last year. Search rank last month: 13th Score: 94.When to drink: 1993 to 2017 The Wine-Searcher score of 94/100 is calculated from the following wine critic scores: Wine Spectator 96/100 CellarTracker 94/100(101 notes from 69 users ) Falstaff Magazin 90/100 Jean-Marc Quarin 89/100 Jancis Robinson 18.5/ to Château Cheval Blanc Views: Sweet pipe tobacco, boysenberry, chocolate, spice, truffle, black cherry and forest aromas pop from the glass. As good as the perfume it, the silky, lush, sexy, refined texture and long, opulent finish are even better. It's not cheap. But for a mature vintage of Cheval Blanc, this is the wine to buy, 97 points - Tasted Sep 4, Views Coconut, sweet cherry blossoms. smoke, blackberry, plum and truffle aromas. Soft, sexy, opulent and polished textures are in full force in this quintessential, finesse styled wine. The fresh, ripe, cherry, plum and spicy finish is pure velvet. This is my favorite Cheval Blanc for current consumption. The only thing from stopping me for awarding more points is the finish could be a little longer. 96 points - Tasted Jun 13, Views Cheval Blanc Floral, spice, truffle, plum, earth and black cherry aromas lead to waves of soft, opulent, rich, ripe, polished plums. Round, soft, sweet and sexy, this is fully mature and due to the mixed reputation of the vintage, this wine sells for a fair price for a Cheval Blanc of this quality. 97 points - Tasted May 26, Views 83 Cheval Blanc is filled with scents of roses, plums, spice, coconut, coffee and cedar, While Cheval Blanc is often prized for its aromatic qualities, this wine takes over your palate with its voluptuous, opulent, velvet laced textures. The polished plum, black cherry and dark berries fill your mouth with pleasure. The long, silky finish is balanced and harmonious. 83 Cheval Blanc

7 continues improving while 82 Cheval Blanc keeps becoming less interesting at each tasting. 97 points - Tasted Sep 5, Views Cedar, plums, ripe black fruits and that unmistakable herbal, minty, forest note that comes from ripe Cabernet Franc. Still tannic, with a plush, lush, chocolate infused finish and good freshness. As good as it was, I ve had better bottles of the 83 Cheval. 94 points - Tasted Feb 17, Views. CHÂTEAU MOUTON ROTHSCHILD 1986 History Wine 6 Château Mouton Rothschild is the only estate to achieve promotion under the Official 1855 Classification of Médoc and Graves. Two years prior to the classification, Baron Nathaniel de Rothschild bought the property then known as Château Brane-Mouton in what was a relatively neglected state and immediately renamed it (to incorporate the family name) and started to recondition the vineyards and facilities. Despite the wines selling for prices as high as those of Château Lafite and Château Latour, the estate was awarded Second Growth status. However, following the outstanding vintages produced by the estate in the 1870s and 1880s, this title was widely considered to be unjust. Eventually, due to Baron Philippe de Rothschild s many years of campaigning and lobbying, Château Mouton Rothschild was promoted to First Growth status in Already the estate had received an injection of innovation when Baron Philippe took over management in He took steps to guarantee authenticity for the consumer by introducing chateau-only bottling in 1924, a ground-breaking move at the time, and one which would revolutionize wine-making practices in Bordeaux. The cellar facility he built in 1926 to accommodate the bottling plant is a one hundred metre long barrel hall that impresses visitors with its extravagance, as do the many collected works of fine art that line the walls of the chateau. Today, under the ownership of Baroness Philippine de Rothschild, Château Mouton Rothschild makes some of the most revered wines in the Médoc. Since 1945 each vintage has been labeled with a unique picture, designed by a famous commissioned artist (Dali, Bacon and Warhol, amongst others), making these wines true collector's items. Viticulture and Vinification The 75 hectares of Château Mouton Rothschild are situated on a mound visible for miles around. The soils are mainly gravel-based which perfectly suits the red varieties planted here, of which Cabernet Sauvignon is dominant. The vines have an admirable average age of 50 years and produce richly-concentrated grapes as a result. The grapes are hand-picked and fermented in barrel for up to 25 days. Extra care is taken to mature the wines in oak for 19 to 22 months before bottling. Approximately 25,000 cases of Château Mouton Rothschild are released each year significantly less than in the early 1990s when a high percentage of grapes went into the first wine. To counter this effect on the Grand Vin, in 1993 the first vintage of Le Petit Mouton de Château Rothschild was produced; allowing the grapes not deemed good enough for the first wine to be made into a more affordable but, some argue, equally good second wine. Château Mouton Rothschild has certainly earned its place amongst the First Growths and often produces what is considered to be the wine of the vintage. Classification Château Mouton Rothschild Premier Grand Cru Classé in Le Petit Mouton de Château Rothschild Appellation Pauillac Contrôlée Aile d'argent Appellation Pauillac Contrôlée

8 Varieties In the vineyard, the grape varieties cultivated are 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Wines produced: Château Mouton Rothschild First Wine: Cabernet Sauvignon tends to be dominant in this blend at approximately 55%. Le Petit Mouton de Château Rothschild Second Wine: Merlot is more prominent in this cuvee at around 70% of the blend. Aile d'argent White Wine: 43% Sémillon, 56% Sauvignon Blanc and 1% Muscadelle. Order top vintages of Château Mouton Rothschild Château Mouton Rothschild 2009: ( RP) "The 2009 Mouton Rothschild should rank alongside the greatest vintages of the last three decades..." Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate Château Mouton Rothschild 1986: (100 RP) "An extraordinary perfume of crème de cassis, cherry liqueur, plums, liquorice, caramel, and sweet toast..." Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate Château Mouton Rothschild 1982: (100 RP) "This flamboyant, exotic, lavishly rich, concentrated, low acid fruit bomb exhibits remarkable aromatic complexity..." Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate "An enormously concentrated, massive Mouton-Rothschild, comparable in quality, but not style, to the 1982, 1959, and it has the potential to last for years!...the wine possesses incredible concentration, full body, fabulous length, and is - well - perfect." 100/100 pts Robert Parker (Wine Advocate-Aug 96) Parker The Wine Advocate 100/100 97/100 Wine 7 Château Margaux 1986 Winemaker's Notes Another truly exceptional vintage, very different from the previous one. The impression on the palate is of great power and concentration, but also fullness and finesse; not since the legendary 1961 has Château Margaux revealed such power and balance. This combination of dimension and elegance represents one of the finest expressions of the terroir of Château Margaux. It is still closed and will not be ready before the year Critical Acclaim "An absolute classic; incredibly concentrated, complex, elegant and firm without a hint of hardness. Layers of blackberry, cassis, plum, cedar, vanilla and spice, yet there is also a sense of reserve, indicating this has plenty of room to grow. Best from 1995 through 2000." 98 PointsWine Spectator "A magnificent example of Chateau Margaux and one of the most tannic, backward Margauxs of the last 50 years, the 1986 continues to evolve at a glacial pace. The color is still a dense ruby/purple with just a hint of lightening at the rim. With several hours of aeration, the aromatics become striking, with notes of smoke, toast, creme de cassis, mineral, and white flowers. Very full-bodied, with high but sweet tannin, great purity, and a very masculine, full-bodied style, this wine should prove nearly immortal in terms of its aging potential. It is beginning to budge from its

9 infantile stage and approach adolescence. Anticipated maturity: Last tasted, 12/02." 98 Points The Wine Advocate Learn About Chateau Margaux Map It Chateau Margaux, a Premier Grand Cru Classe Bordeaux, is one of the most famous wines in the world. Care has been lavished on the property by a line of owners with an abiding concern for the reputation of the estate. For more than five hundred years, season after season, generations of vineyard-workers, grapeharvesters, cellarworkers, coopers and many other craftsmen have all... Read More About Chateau Margaux Château Margaux 1981 Wine Notes First Growth. Premier Grand Cru Classe in Price Range of 750ml bottle, ex-tax in NOK Average: 2,936kr From: 2,093kr To 5,527kr Wine 8 Search Rank 1What is search rank? Over all vintages, this was themost popular wine on Wine-Searcher last year. Search rank last month: 1st Score: 92.When to drink: 1996 to 2015 The Wine-Searcher score of 92/100 is calculated from the following wine critic scores: Wine Spectator 95/100 CellarTracker 91/100(60 notes from 49 users ) Price History for 1981 Chateau Margaux, Margaux, France